For a taste of the theme-park version of Jiangxi's wéi lóng wū, head to the prosaically named Scenic Area of Guanxi Enclosed House. Until just a few years ago, villagers used to live among the historic buildings here, but they were turfed out and a newly landscaped tourist park was built in place of their homes. It's pleasant enough, though the piped music is somewhat grating and many of the structures have been newly constructed and made to look old.
The two centrepiece attractions, though, have always been here, and are still worth the trip, and the entrance fee. Guanxi New Fort (关西新围, Guānxì Xīn Wéi) was built in 1827 by Xu Mingjun, a wealthy timber merchant, and is the largest and most ornate fortified residence in the county. The smaller, more run-down fort just behind it is known as Old Fort (老围, lǎo wéi) and was built by Xu's father. Some villagers still live in Old Fort.
To get here, take a bus from Longnan's Binjiang Sq to Guanxi (关西, Guānxī; ¥5.5, 40 minutes, hourly, 6.20am to 5.30pm). It passes a few other non-touristy wéi lóng wū en route; hop off the bus and explore.
