The rolling landscape of Kigali, Rwanda is an unmissable characteristic of the city, responsible for the incredible views you can find almost anywhere © Image via Getty Images; Illustration by Dustin Johnson / Lonely Planet
Rwanda is often called the ‘Land of a Thousand Hills’ and anyone who’s been to its capital, Kigali, will understand why. The rolling landscape is an unmissable characteristic of the city, responsible for the incredible views you can find almost anywhere. Come nightfall, it’s where the starry sky blends into the speckled lights of homes, offices and buildings that make up the city’s skyline. There’s plenty to do and see in these Kigali hills – here are the things you’ll never forget:
Start with understanding and remembrance
The 1994 Genocide against the Tutsi is one of the most tragic and significant moments in Rwandan history. In the span of 100 days, an estimated one million Tutsis and moderate Hutus were systematically butchered. The Kigali Genocide Memorial honors the estimated 250,000 people buried here in mass graves and has an excellent exhibition that tries to explain how it was that the world watched as the atrocities unfolded.
To enjoy the staunch security, pristine streets, and vibrant nightlife of Kigali today without understanding the wider context of the land’s history is doing yourself a disservice, and it’s appropriate to spend the first part of your day in reflection. This intensely powerful and moving memorial is the perfect place to come to terms with Rwanda’s devastating history and the history of genocidal violence around the world.
Plan to spend a couple of hours here, both to gain insight into the events 30 years ago, and to commemorate the lives lost in these remarkably moving exhibitions.
Get a taste of the world in Kimihurura
When it’s time for lunch, you’ll be spoiled for options. Over the past 10 years, Kigali’s culinary landscape has seen something of a renaissance with new restaurants, cafes and bars popping up all over the city. With the opening of Rwanda’s visa protocols (pretty much any country can obtain a visa on arrival) came a rush of people who decided to make it their home, bringing with them a world of delicious cuisine.
Kigali has also seen a return of many former diaspora – like Nathalie and John, the owners of Poivre Noir, a popular Belgian-style bistro with a fusion flair. It’s located in Kimihurura, a residential neighborhood becoming well-known for its popular eateries and cafes. Among them, Repub Lounge specializes in East African food; Indabo is known for its healthier bowls and snacks (and has an adorable dog-park attached!); Borneo Indonesian features spicy favorites like beef rendang and gadogado; and Patisserie Royale is a popular cafe and cake bakery.
Any of these would be great for a tasty sit-down lunch, but they’re just the tip of the iceberg – there are plenty of great spots for more Rwandan delicacies (as well as Middle Eastern, Italian, Asian and more) within the span of about five parallel and very walkable roads.
Outdoor experiences and artistic appreciation
Walk off your lunch at Nyandungu Urban Wetland Eco-Park, Kigali’s first finished project in its attempt to restore the biodiversity of urban wetland ecosystems. The park opened in 2022, and features tranquil pathways through parks, flower gardens, and bamboo-lined lanes. There’s even a space dedicated to highlighting the medicinal plants Rwandans traditionally used for different ailments.
Bicycles are available for rent if that’s more your speed, and signs labeling each species in both Kinyarwanda and English punctuate the entire park. Pro tip: Check out Live Well Rwanda for more information about the park’s weekly Yoga classes.
Visiting one of Kigali’s wonderful art studios is the perfect way to get to know the soul of the city. Indiba Arts Space, Niyo Arts Center, Kigali Deaf Art Gallery and Choose Kigali each provide unique glimpses into the Kigali experience and consciousness through the eyes of brilliant local artists.
It’s hard to go wrong with any of these options, but our favorites might be Kigali Deaf Art Gallery and Choose Kigali. The former features (and is run by) talented deaf artists who have become known for their intricately beaded portraits and accessories. Meanwhile, Choose Kigali is a luxury experience – it’s home to celebrated Rwandan artist Emmanuel Nkuranga’s personal collection.
Dinner and a view
The Choose Kigali gallery doubles as a guesthouse and restaurant, with renowned visiting chefs and an incredible view of the city. It’s a great option for dinner. Alternatively, head back to culinary hotspot Kimihurura or check out Rugando – this neighborhood boasts delicious dining options, such as Choma’d for amazing barbecue in a chill atmosphere, Habesha for authentic Ethiopian recipes with a quiet vibe, and Inka Steakhouse with elevated meals and a cool patio setting.
Beautiful views characterize the city of Kigali, and there’s an amazing place to gaze almost everywhere you turn. With that said, what Kimihurura is to eating, Rebero is to stunning vistas.
Located high on a hill, the neighborhood offers some of the most beautiful and extensive views of the whole city. Check out Eagle View Lodge for a view with a drink or meal, or simply make your way up the hill and enjoy the views along the way. Pro tip: head this way around dusk so you can look out at the city in the light and after dark.
Keep the fun going in Kigali’s nightlife scene
You’ve fit a lot into one day and can confidently say you’ve seen the city, but now it’s time to close out the evening with a little socializing, live music and fun. Head for Kimihurura again (yep, it’s just that good!) or the neighborhood of Remera.
In Kimihurura, grab a drink with a view and a vibrant atmosphere at Boho – its breezy, indoor-outdoor ambience is a standout. Another popular choice is Lavana, which features live performances, featured DJs, movie nights and famous tequila cocktails. If you’re looking to connect and dance the night away, visit popular nightclub, La Noche.
Remera, on the other hand, offers a ‘hip strip’ lined with bars and clubs offering different types of music and energies, ideal for popping in and out to find your optimal vibe.
No matter where you choose, it’s the perfect way to wrap up a day you’ll always remember, filled with all the history, warmth, diversity and beauty this wonderful city has to offer.
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