Where to go in Slovakia for castle ruins, mountain hikes and city culture

Most travelers get a taste of Slovakia on a city break in the capital, Bratislava, or by hiking in the famous Tatras.

Yet well beyond its numerous castles and cobbled old towns, the Central European country offers much more. Nowadays, many of Slovakia’s historic buildings are incubators for contemporary art and cuisine. And while the High Tatras are indeed (and should be) a prime draw, Slovakia’s other national parks abound with forests, meadows and alpine lakes, plus cycling and hiking trails galore.

Many countries can boast such a range of attractions – but few have it all such a modestly sized, easy-to-travel package. Trains connect Slovakia to capitals across services Europe, bus services are abundant and driving yourself is easy. Won over yet?

Here’s our rundown of Slovakia’s best places to visit.

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1. Bratislava

Best for merrymaking and monumental architecture

It’s not hard to find thirsty tourists stumbling across Bratislava’s cobblestones in search of their next Lánius beer (or, more bravely, their next round of Slivovitz plum brandy). Yet while the Slovak capital has a well-earned reputation as a party town, even devoted revelers take in some culture along the way.

Expect a showcase of architecture from across the centuries. Michael’s Tower, the city’s original gate, dates from the Middle Ages, as does the city’s crowning castle. The art-nouveau Blue Church is a gem of early-20th-century design, while at the Slovak National Gallery, art is exhibited in an award-winning gallery space. And all around, the brutish beauty of the socialist era is still present in oddities like the UFO (home to a rotating restaurant) and the defiantly upside-down Slovak Radio Building.

Bratislava is also an ideal base for day trips. Within 90 minutes by road you can storm Červený Kameň Castle, take a spa day in Piešťany, drink in the views from Devínska Kobyla Observation Tower or climb Trenčín’s clock tower for a bird’s-eye view.

Planning tip: Summer festivals help you see the city at its regal best. Plan around Middle Ages in the Park in June or the later summer Coronation Days.

2. The High Tatras

Best for mountain thrills

With peaks that reach as high as 2655m (8710ft), northern Slovakia’s mountains have acquired near-mythic status. These fearsome mountains and valleys were carved by glaciers during the Ice Age; today the High Tatras, particularly the crooked peak of Kriváň (2495m / 8285ft), are symbols of national pride. Mixed-ability groups head straight for idyllic strolls at glacial Popradské Pleso lake, while tougher day-long treks like the Furkotská Valley Loop and the Kôprovsky Śtit Ascent appeal to hardier hikers. It’s easy to travel green, too: the Tatra Electric Railway travels between Štrbské Pleso (a lakeside resort town with lovely walking trails) right up to the lofty mountain resort Tatranská Lomnica.

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Skiers also have plenty of reasons to head to the High Tatras. Jasná Nízke Tatry is the biggest ski area with more than 46km (29 miles) of trails, while the highest resort, Tatranská Lomnica, tops out at 2190m (7185ft).

Planning tip: The highest hikes don’t open until mid-June, so go in midsummer if you’re scaling lofty peaks like Kriváň or Rysy (2501m / 8205ft). Otherwise, September’s mellow sunshine is ideal for hitting the trails.

3. Košice

Best for modern art and medieval finery

Second cities have an appealing vibe: all the size and sophistication of a capital, only with fewer tourists and a scrappy attitude. This describes Košice through and through. For those who like their beauty with a bit of an edge, it’s irresistible. The forbiddingly Gothic St Elizabeth’s Cathedral anchors a plaza graced by a plague column, grand town hall and 14th-century chapel. These layers of history are best peeled back along art studio– and cafe-lined Hrnčiarska, long the abode of the city’s artisans. Meanwhile, Tabačka Kulturfabrik has transformed into a coworking space–performance space–anything-goes bar-slash-venue. It’s creative, messy – and quintessentially Košice.

Planning tip: There are no fewer than 18 UNESCO World Heritage sights within a couple of hours by road from Košice, with the most enchanting along the Wooden Churches Trail. Hire a driver or rent a car to do a loop taking in Ladomirová, Hervatov and Kežmarok; summoning a church custodian to unlock these art-filled churches is part of the fun.

4. Slovenský Raj National Park

Best for waterfalls and rivers

Of the nine national parks within Slovakia’s borders, this might just be our favorite. “Slovak Paradise” is more akin to an adventure playground than a wilderness. Streams wind through this landscape of forests and karst cliffs, forcing visitors to climb ladders and balance along wooden walkways to navigate trails like the ever-popular Suchá Belá Gorge and Kláštorská Gorge, with its three waterfalls.

Cycling is a delightful way to explore, too: there are 65km (40 miles) of bike trails within the park, and more in the surrounding countryside. (Rent wheels in the gateway town of Spišská Nová Ves or in Podlesok, within the park.) Though winter is much quieter, you can cross-country ski on marked walking trails, or head to the small ski area at Mlynky.

Planning tip: A worthwhile detour just outside the park is Dobšinská Ice Cave, which is open to tours of its frosty stalagmites between mid-May and late August.

5. Banská Štiavnica

Best for culture, both above and below ground

Is Banská Štiavnica the prettiest town in Central Europe? We think it’s a strong contender: Gothic and Renaissance churches and houses make it a veritable jewel box of architecture, and it’s huddled inside an extinct volcanic caldera.

This medieval settlement in the midst of the Štiavnica Mountains garnered a UNESCO World Heritage listing not for its beauty but its remarkable engineering history: it’s Slovakia’s oldest gold- and silver-mining town. Strolling around the historic village – from elegant Trinity Square to the not-so-new New Castle (16th century) – is more than eye candy: it’s a glimpse into an industry that transformed the whole region. The Slovak Mining Museum takes you deep down into the heart of the town’s mining past. Up above, Kalvária, a unique complex of Baroque churches and chapels, overlooks Banská Štiavnica from a hilltop east of town.

6. Ždiar

Best for authentic mountain culture

The village of Ždiar’s setting is simply lovely: in the Belianske Tatras, right by the border with Poland, surrounded by glorious hiking and biking trails, as well as caves you can visit nearby. What makes it even more special is the distinct flavor of Goral culture in everything from its food to its ornately painted houses.

Goral people have lived in northern Slovakia and southern Poland ever since the 14th century, when Wallachian shepherds migrated north to these rugged lands. Today, Goral identity remains an unmistakable feature of the town, noticeable in Ždiar’s log houses, which are traditionally decorated with geometric patterns in blue and red paint. The old ways are carefully preserved in the Ždiarsky Dom folk museum – and served up at the adjoining traditional restaurant. Expect sheep’s cheese galore.

7. Tokaj Region

Best for idyllic wine country

Hungary has hogged the acclaim for sweet white Tokaj wine, a so-called “liquid gold” once served to royals and still gracing the dessert menus of many fine-dining restaurants. Yet much of the Tokaj wine region, formerly entirely within the Kingdom of Hungary, landed within the borders of modern-day Slovakia at the end of the First World War.

Today, southeastern Slovakia boasts more than a dozen wineries. Hand-dug underground cellars provide deliciously rustic settings to sample Tokaj wine, usually with cheeses and cold meats to cleanse your palate in between each sweet sip. The Jaroslav Ostrožovič and Tokaj Macik wineres, both long-standing and family-run, offer the full experience. Reserve tastings ahead.

Planning tip: Wine villages like Veľká Tŕňa are only an hour by road from Košice – but it’s much more sensible (not to mention enjoyable) to stay overnight. Many wineries have on-site rooms; another appealing option is a stay in a tree house at Camping Malá Bara.

8. Spišské Podhradie

Best castle and hilltop views

In a country with more than 120 castles to visit, choosing a favorite is tough. But if we had to hide from a trebuchet attack anywhere in Slovakia, we’d pick Spiš. Standing imperiously on a 634m(2080ft)-high hilltop, Spiš Castle has withstood centuries of battles thanks to its stocky towers and defensive walls. It’s one of Central Europe’s biggest strongholds. And thanks to a Gothic makeover of its palace, it’s as attractive as it is imposing. On clear days, you can see all the way to the Tatras.

Spišské Podhradie is no one-trick town: just west lies the Spišská Kapitula, whose architecture – a mix of Romanesque turrets and splashy Baroque finery – has earned it the nickname “Slovakia’s Vatican.” The village has a small but excellent array of guesthouses and restaurants, too; we recommend the farmhouse fare at merry Spišsky Salaš.

Planning tip: Just 12km (7.5 miles) west is the town of Levoča, with a fine town hall and a small cluster of art and medieval museums. The highlight is the dreamy view of Levoča’s church spires and defensive walls from the hilltop Basilica of the Virgin Mary – a view guaranteed to inspire dreams of your next trip.